Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on